Athens Bites

This article first appeared in Rugby League Review Magazine in June 2020

It’s 9am on 11 July 2016 in the northern suburbs of Athens, the temperature has already hit 30 degrees and it’s climbing. 

The family labradoodle has just arrived from Australia and I am taking her for what would become a familiar stroll to the local shops. We had settled into a routine of sitting at the local ‘kafenaio’ for an iced coffee and a couple of Greek biscuits. I will smile and say ‘yia sas’ to the owner and maybe mention the weather before staring at my phone to pass the time. It’s as much as we can do with my non-existent Greek and his willing but broken English.

The same stilted, abrupt conversations are repeated as I go around to the butcher, fruit and veg shop and mini-supermarkets. People smile and want to make me feel welcome. At the same time I suspect they were wondering why this strange guy is walking around with his dog every day deep in the ‘burbs’ of Greece’s capital city.

Athens, at first glance is a concrete jungle, surrounded by chaos, and a furnace in the summer months of June to August. It has an undeserved reputation for being a ‘one night stand’ before jumping on to an island ferry destined for the bars and beaches.

Taxi drivers ask “when are you leaving for the islands” once the “where are you from?” conversation is out of the way. 

I never thought I would miss that morning coffee with the guys in my former job at the Australian Institute of Sport in Canberra so much. Those gentle jibes that come with familiarity and friendship and the understated humour that is part of the Aussie fabric. Talking about footy and weekends is something that you take for granted until it’s gone. I learned a little bit about what it is like when people emigrate. 

The fact that my thoughts veered towards heading back ‘home’ surprised and disappointed me all at once. I knew I had been gifted an exciting and extremely privileged opportunity. I kept telling myself I should be grateful and show some resilience because things would turn for the better.

My wife was posted to the Australian Embassy in Athens. We had been excited about our three year ‘new life’ and immersing ourselves in one of the greatest, most important cultures in history. 

While my partner’s job required a solid commitment in terms of hours and focus, I had a free reign to wander when and wherever I liked. My days were filled with sightseeing, coffee and very good food. What more could anyone want?

More than anything it was a chat and a laugh that I missed. Some days I would wander into an expat/ tourist pub in the hope of striking up a conversation in English that went beyond polite greetings. 

My youngest daughter was struggling with being away from her sister and her friends. It was hard seeing her unhappy every day. Returning to Australia after a while turned out to be a better option for her. 

Without the required Greek language skills, work options consisted of lowly paid call centre shifts. Not exactly what I had envisaged before leaving Australia.

It was a message I received on social media that day after returning from my morning walk that became the catalyst for my change of outlook. So much so that a few years on I was very sad to leave a country I had learned to love and embrace. ‘

As fate would have it George Stilianos, the President of the Greek Rugby League Association, sent me the message after noticing I had liked the Greek Rugby League Association Facebook page. “I noticed you liked our page and look like you might be in Greece? If you are free do you want to come and watch the third State of Origin series decider at a pub in the centre of Athens?” 

Did I ever George! My plan up until then was to watch it in the apartment on my own. It turned out to be my entry into the local community and the beginning of my passion for Greek rugby league.

On that day I saw NSW win the Origin series but more significantly (hard to imagine I know) the door into the rugby league community in Athens had been opened and left ajar. I met Greek Aussies who helped initiate and develop the sport in Greece and locals who have adopted rugby league as their lifestyle and are now representing their country. 

I felt an immediate rapport and a small sense of belonging even at this stage.

Sport has played a major role in my life from the day I could walk and again it proved to a path to fulfilment in Greece. 

Writing began to fill my days in the apartment. Telling stories about sports, food, wine, people and places gave me a sense of purpose and a bit of pocket money to enjoy the food and coffee that enriches the Athens lifestyle. 

Beginning with throwing out a few freebies to launch my freelance writing career, it soon transformed into regular paid columns for sporting websites, magazines and a Greek Australian newspaper. My first story for the paper was about local rugby league player Johny Nake who was returning from serious injury for the Attica Rhinos.

Along the way I met sports people, actors, photographers, celebrity chefs, historians and writers. A myriad of famous or not so famous people all with fascinating stories. 

Keeping in touch with George, I maintained a keen interest in Greek rugby league, watching any games that I could and accepting an invitation to attend an ‘Eights’ tournament on the island of Rhodes featuring all the Greek clubs, a group of Greek Australian players and a team from Turkey. At that tournament I spent some time with Greek coaches Steve Georgallis and Jim Pizanias as well as the driving force behind Greek international rugby League Terry Liberopoulos. The Greece team played a ‘friendly’ match with Turkey that weekend. I experienced the passion and intensity of European international rugby league on the field and in the dressing room. I was hooked.

Continuing to attend club matches in Athens, I was faced with a conundrum one night. As is often the case, there weren’t enough match officials and George asked if I would consider being a touch judge. The guys that run the line were always my pet hate as a player and now I was joining them! It was the only time I crossed over to the dark side and I enjoyed it to be honest. It felt like I was helping out in a tangible way. I went back to writing articles and profiles around Greek rugby league whenever I could without pushing it too far with editors.

My love affair with coaching began after being approached by Aris Eagles club leader, Aris Dardamanis, to help before their first ever match in the Balkan Super League against Partizan in Belgrade. It was a tough match and a great experience for both me and the players to work out where we need to focus and improve.

Coaching led to some fantastic trips and further opportunities with the Combined Athens side and the first Greece women’s national team.

The joy of taking young men and women from little knowledge of a sport to accomplished players is one of the most satisfying things I have ever done. The honour of coaching the first ever Greek women’s rugby league team in an international match against Turkey is a life memory that fills me with happiness. 

The long bus journey from Athens to Edirne, the joyous faces of our players when they received their first Greek jersey and then the emotion in the dressing room after realising we had played our first women’s international match are priceless memories. Working as a coaching group with my assistants Jim Minadakis and Christos Mouzakitis was a learning experience in utilising the traits of others for the benefit of the team. 

Being appointed head coach of the first women’s national team was beyond my wildest dreams. It is hard to explain the honour and pride I felt coaching my adopted temporary homeland. The way the players and other coaches welcomed me into the fold and embraced my philosophy and instructions ensured it was a special time in my life.

Sport provides a sense of purpose and identity for Greeks in an economic environment where youth unemployment is around 45 per cent and players are out of work, underemployed or under pressure to achieve exceptional results at university.

Coaching teams granted me a place in a small but strong community. I could at the very least pass on the knowledge I have gained in Australia playing and watching over many years.

The social connection that sport provides was clearly evident before my first coaching assignment. After traveling from Athens to Larissa for a tournament we stepped off the bus and into a lively conversation with the organisers. We had taken a couple of misguided turns on our journey and arrived late so I assumed that the animated discussion was about getting the draw sorted and commencing the competition as soon as possible. During a slight pause in the conversation I enquired as to what the story was and whether we needed to get changed into our uniforms straight away? “Just sorting the souvlaki and salads afterwards,”our captain replied without a hint of a smile.

Training sessions are just the beginning of the night time itinerary for the players in Athens. When we finished training around 10pm, I was ready to go home to bed while the night was still young for a nation of people that seem to survive on minimal sleep.

Communication with the team was interesting at times. Regrettably my Greek language skills are at a low level. My advice and instructions were often conveyed to the team by the captain acting as an interpreter.

The respect and inclusion offered to me as coach and someone who was older by the young players was remarkable. The insistence that I take the front passenger seat on car trips and the invitations to join them at nightclubs, bars and parties were humbling and refreshing. 

Before I left Australia to come to Greece I knew that I wanted to be a part of the community and be involved with something worthwhile and sport/rugby league is the perfect vehicle.

From coaching the Aris Eagles men’s team, the Athens representative teams and finally as head coach of the first Greek women’s national rugby league side I have seen nothing but enthusiasm, passion and a willingness to play the game in the right spirit for all the best reasons. 

The family style community that exists in Greece should be bottled and sent around the world. 

I feel I left so much unfinished business with the Aris Eagles and the Greek women’s national side but I am secure in the knowledge that the teams are in good hands. 

The coaching trips to Belgrade, Sofia and Edirne will remain sweet memories for life. 

Aside from the rugby league, I developed into a travel addict, embracing any opportunity that came my way to explore the islands and mainland Greece. The country is beautiful and people are welcoming. My location meant I could visit multiple European destinations cheaply and easily. Trips to Belgrade and a London to watch Greece play were just some of the many highlights.

Watching the Greece team play for the first time with all domestic players against Serbia in Belgrade in 2017 was a stand out moment. In the dressing room afterwards despite a loss, coach Steve Georgallis went around shook each players hand and said “welcome to international rugby league.” You could see the boys chests swell visibly after previously being deflated by the loss.

We moved to an apartment closer to the centre of Athens within six months of living there. The chaotic and sometimes crazy city captured my heart. Lift the lid and immerse yourself and you will find a metropolis that comes alive at night, where locals live each day to the max. Greeks prioritise their social circles above all else. If you are brought into the ‘family’ you will find yourself immersed in a community characterised by kindness and generosity.

There are way too many people to thank for their help, support and friendship during my time in Greece but they know who they are. We have maintained regular contact from a distance. I have gained friends for life both in Greece and the Greek/Aussie community back here.

When the world returns to some sort of order, and international travel is an option again,  I would love to return to the place that gave me so many good memories. I look forward to having a beer again with men and women that made my time in Greece so enjoyable. 

While I am Australian, Greece has become my ‘other team’ and I feel like the ‘family’ has welcomed me with open arms. I look forward to being with the boys when they participate in their first World Cup in 2021 in my role as team media manager. I have started coaching a new Greek Australian women’s squad reaching the final of the Sydney 9s earlier this year. We have big ambitions to take the team to the World Cup in 2025.

The Facebook message was a turning point that day. I am just glad I stuck it out in the end.

My second visit to the Benaki Museum Annexe was for another photography exhibition, ‘Athena  Thea’ or Athens Views.

The gallery in the arty precinct of Kerameikos is a really good space with a cafe that serves  food and coffee that is worth a visit  in its own right.

Athena Thea is a project by Ianna Andreais who invited inhabitants of central Athens to photograph the view from their window with at least part of the window in the shot.

The invitations and submissions were managed via Facebook.

The views are many and varied, (submissions from 500 people are on display) and portray a different city to the general tourist, couple of days in the capital before hopping over to an island, impression.

This is a gritty Athens that throbs with life while enticing you with her  charms and daring  you off the beaten track to explore.

The exhibition is at the Benaki Annexe 138 Pireos St and runs until 29 January 2017.

Well worth a visit if you are in town.

Cheers and Yiassas

Stu

Twitter @discomclennan

By Stuart McLennan Twitter @discomclennan

The Attica Rhinos remain unbeaten after two rounds of the Greek rugby league championship defeating the Patras Panthers 52-4 in Athens on Saturday night.

In an entertaining display in damp conditions at Agios Kosmas, the Rhinos scored nine tries to one continuing their good form from pre-season.

With a glut of possession in the first half, due to unforced Patras errors, Attica jumped to the lead early when speedy back Andreas Shakaj crossed the line in the third minute.

Both Shakaj and Panagiotis Kanellakis were at their best in the first half grabbing a double each before the break.

Kanellakis was playing his first game of the season after being drafted in to the army in May and only being able to attend training for the first lime last Thursday. He returns to the army this week.

Rhinos halfback George Stilianos employed a smart kicking game that troubled the opposition under lights in wet conditions.

With the scoreline 30-4 at the break the game was all but over but to the the credit of Patras they improved their performance in the second stanza reducing errors and tightening up their defence.

Fullback Mohammed Arikat was dangerous every time he touched the ball for Patras making a number of incisive runs before incurring a knee injury just before full

Greek national team front rower Kostas Georgogalas was unable to make the trip from Patras due to family olive harvesting commitments.

Rhinos captain Johny Nake successfully returned from injury, controlling the ruck, scoring two individual tries and saving a couple of tries with last ditch efforts.

Nake felt that he had “held back a bit” after returning from a broken jaw but was happy with the team’s performance. The Rhinos hooker also coaches the team and is reaping the benefits of recent RLEF coach education.

Patra captain Christos Aznaouridis was proud of the efforts of his team who were playing only their second game of league after switching from rugby union this season.

“We know what is required and we get the process right at training but it is different in a match situation.

“We made too many errors tonight but each game is a learning experience for us.”

The match featured a couple of impressive debuts.

Rhinos forward Ioannis Zevgolis played his first game of rugby league at age 38.

The first female rugby league match official in Greece, Zoe Valassa, completed her first game as a touch judge.

Rhodes Knights vs Aris Eagles on 10 December in Rhodes will complete the second round.
Attica Rhinos 52  (Shakaj 3’ 14’; Kanellakis 13’ 26’; Nake 18’ 39’; Xygkas 48’ 50’; Malai 54’ tries, Stilianos 8 goals)
Patras Panthers 4 ( Karaiskakis 17’ try)

On the advice of  the excellent online site ‘Why Athens’ we headed across to the other side of Athens on the weekend to an exhibition by Greek photographer Constantinos Pittas.

Entitled ‘Images of another Europe 1985-89’ it was always going to interest this ageing punter being one of the many thousands of young backpackers who spent time in here in Europe in the 80s.

Pittas had the aim of photographing people either side of the iron curtain to show that everyday life was similar no matter where you lived.

He had no formal training. In most cases the  small camera was hidden and the subjects had no idea they were being photographed.

Pittas visited 17 countries across Europe to acquire the images, sleeping in his car and camping.

The images of Berlin struck a chord with me as I vividly remember the crossover through Checkpoint Charlie to East Berlin.

It was daunting for a naive young Australian and strikingly contrasted in terms of mood and atmosphere.

Being the 1980s alcohol seemed to flow everywhere.

On the west side celebrations abounded while in the east perhaps it was a coping mechanism.

Anyway the wall has gone, times have changed and we have moved on. Or have we?

An interesting and thought provoking exhibition at the Benaki Museum Annex in Athens.

The Greek holiday island of Rhodes has thrown up another stunner. Apparently it is sunny here 300 days of the year.

Greece rugby league head coach Steve Georgallis is sitting at the officials table at Karakonero Stadium while the Rhodes 8s tournament is being contested. Teams involved are from Athens, Patra, Rhodes, Turkey and Australia. The team of Greek Australians will eventually win the final against Turkey.

‘Georgie’ has taken on the role of timekeeper, scoreboard attendant, results scribe and any other vacant job that needs to be managed on the sidelines at a rugby league tournament.

His Dad Leo, who emigrated to Sydney from the island of Tilos in 1959, is at the back of the grandstand taking it all in. More than once he brings his son a cup of coffee to keep him going.

In between games a number of people stroll over to say yasou and chat to the affable coach.

“This is what I love,” says Georgallis with a broad grin. “This is rugby league in its purest form. It not about money and status. Just camaraderie and a shared love for the game.

“When I came into first grade in the late 1980s in Sydney everyone was a part-time professional and had other jobs. Georgallis was a PE teacher and it is clear he looks back on those times with fondness and nostalgia.

“In those days all the players knew each other and you would play it tough on the field but then have a beer with the opposition after the game. That doesn’t happen anymore.”

While on official duties, the astute coach is also identifying players with his assistant Jim Pizanias for the squad of nineteen to play an international match against Turkey the following night.

Georgallis has been coach of the Greek team since 2002.

Starting out playing with teams of all heritage players selected mainly from competitions in Australia, rugby league in Greece evolved to having its own domestic competition in 2013.

While there has been a recent split with two leagues operating, there is strong optimism for this competition. It is overseen by the Rugby League European Federation (RLEF) who have been assisting with coaching and officials development

“I can see a real improvement in the local players since I was here a couple of years ago and that is a credit to the work of the volunteers in this country.

“No one gets paid a cent here. The Australians came over on the back of fundraising nights and the local Greek players paid their own airfares to Rhodes.

“This weekend is only possible due to the generosity of the local municipal council here who are providing accommodation and transport.”

When the squad of 19 is chosen on Saturday morning 12 players from the Greek domestic competition are in the side.

“If a couple of these kids here in Greece were transported to Australia and placed in junior development systems I know they would become top line players.

“Our team is a balance of Australian players who have been playing the game all their life and can provide some direction and leadership to local players who have talent and passion but have only being playing the game for a short time.

“We picked a kid from an Athens club, the Attica Rhinos who has been playing the game for less than 6 months and now he is playing for his country!”

The theme of the pre-game dressing room speech from the coach was pride in your country. The chests of the players visibly swell as the words cut through the nervous silence.

The first half of the game is full of niggle and aggression as you would expect with the history of these two proud countries. A brawl breaks out and a Turkish player is sent from the field leaving Turkey to battle it out with 12 men on the pitch.

At halftime up 26-0 the usually laid back and friendly Georgallis becomes stern and agitated. Discipline, don’t get involved with niggling tactics and respect the referee was the gist of his tirade.

The team responds by focussing on playing good entertaining rugby league and runs out winners 86-0.

Turkey coach Julien Treu is surprisingly philosophical post game. “This is our first international. We have only been official for 4 months. We will learn from the result and we will learn from the send off. It is a starting point.”

The only Australian based Turkish player is dummy half Effem Coskun who plays with the Bankstown Giants in the police competition. “I was in Turkey for a 2 week holiday and they contacted me about going to Rhodes. I thought this sounds fun but when I was out there and I heard the anthems it really hit me that I was playing for my country.”

The weekend of rugby league finishes on Sunday with the first game of the 2016-17 Greek domestic season between the Rhodes Knights and Patras Panthers who have switched from rugby union this season. Patras are decked out in Panthers playing gear that Georgallis was able to secure for them as Penrith’s 2016 NSW Cup coach.

Patras go down 56-0 to last years premiers Rhodes but Georgie says they have plenty of potential. “With the right leadership and guidance they can be a strong team.”

At the end of the weekend Georgallis who is staying on a bit longer comes out to the airport to have a final drink and say goodbye. Not because it is his duty. It is obvious he just loves being around the players.

“My dad came out to Australia from Greece when he was 18 and made a life there. I am doing this to pay him back, pay Greece back and to pay rugby league back.

“See that young kid there from Attica Rhinos? He hasn’t had the Greek team polo shirt off his back since we gave it to him. That’s what I love about rugby league!”

Twitter @Discomclennan

 

Unfortunately I don’t speak Greek, a situation I hope to remedy over the next 3 years.

When I take the dog for a walk and the obligatory  espresso freddo  we communicate via the English language. Much appreciated by me!

What confuses shop keepers and cafe owners is what the hell am I doing hanging around  in Athens during the summer  holiday period.

Conversations usually go this way:

What are you doing here in Athens?

My wife has a job here and we will be here for at least 3 years.

But why would you do that?

Because it is exciting and a new experience for us to live here.

Ok. When are you going to an island?

I am not sure. We have just arrived in Athens and  my wife has just started and it is the busiest time of year for her?

Are you going tomorrow?  Which island will you go to?

You get the gist. There was a two week period in August when I think we were  close to the only people left in this city.

We haven’t been to an island yet. (Last time we were in Greece we did have a weekend break in Santorini – brilliant!).

We will do it soon. I am confident. In the meantime we have been exploring the coast on the mainland close to Athens.

Here are some highlights.

Lake  Vouliagmeni  (sunken lake) in the heart of the Athenian Riviera, 20km south of the city, is a warm water lake and a therapeutic spa. It has a load of seats with umbrellas around the edge and boasts food and drink table service. Small fish bite at your feet while  you are swimming removing the dead skin cells. An interesting experience.

On a recent weekend we  hired a car and ventured further. This time to Cape Sounion, 69km south-southeast of Athens.Weirdly we didn’t end up swimming this time, just couldn’t find a beach that suited, but we came across some stunning scenery , views of the Aegean and the Temple of Poseidon ruins pictured.

I have left the best for last as far as the perfect Sunday outing. Last weekend we went to Porto Germeno, 48km northwest of Athens, a coastal settlement surrounded by forested mountains.

A relaxing swim in the strikingly blue sea and a pleasant Greek seafood lunch at a beachside taverna. Hard to beat.

We have just purchased a car. More day trips are on the cards and island holidays in the planning. I promise!

Cheers and Yiassas

 

(Photo courtesy Lord of the Blades Facebook page)

The return of the old school barber has been bubbling for the last few years. First it was hipsters with Ned Kelly style beards. Now males everywhere are ditching the unisex hairdresser for an environment where men can be blokes and still receive a quality service.

The shop where you can crack jokes that push political correctness boundaries, talk sport, politics and anything else that comes to mind has become fashionable again worldwide.

I am a fan of the old school barber and I am glad that Athens has embraced the revival.  It is a place where men can get some intense care for their beards and hair and pretend that they are not bothered about appearance.

Curiously 60s to 80s rock is the soundtrack of choice for these establishments both here  in Athens and back in Australia. I have heard everything from the Doors to Bon Jovi as the number 2 razor buzzes around my head.

The  scene is set for a good half hour or so of laughs and music except for one slightly important issue. In Athens I can’t understand what the barbers or the customers are  saying or for that matter are chuckling about.

Is it me they are poking fun at? Probably not but you never know.

I am pretty sure this is not the case as the Greeks I have met have been friendly and respectful.

I am desperate to know what they are saying  though so now the Greek language lessons are an immediate priority.

I want to genuinely laugh along with the rest of the guys!

(Photo courtesy of the Lord of the Blades -my local barber – Facebook page)

Cheers and Giassas

Stu

1. It is all about the people

Despite the much reported financial crisis and high unemployment in Greece the people of Athens really do  care about each other.

Whether it is money problems, poor health or other stresses people are willing to give a coin, lend a hand or offer sage advice when called upon.

Athenians love spending  time with each other and their enthusiasm for socialising doesn’t seem to have been dampened by the weak economy.

Revellers head out to eat and party at about the same time I am thinking about bed.

2. Athens has gone to the dogs

Dogs are very much loved and respected in Athens. Street dogs are fat, happy and well cared for.

The local government here regularly rounds them up, tags them and provides free vet services.

Pets have free access to a a lot of venues and my dog Scamper has never been fussed over as much as she has in Athens

3. Football fans have real passion

Athens has three major football teams, Olympiacos, AEK and Panathinaikos. The rivalry between the clubs is fierce. So heated that games have been played in empty stadiums with fans locked out due what has been deemed to unruly behaviour.

Graffiti for Panithanaikos FC and their supporter group Gate 13 is visible on walls everywhere I look.

I am genuinely intrigued about the match atmosphere and supporter passion. Hope to be at a game soon.

4. Cold coffee is the best

After visiting Athens last year in April I was determined not to join the entire population of Athens and become a frappe fanatic.

After a few unsatisfying hot coffees in 36 degree heat I gave an “Espresso Freddo” a go and haven’t  looked back.

Definitely the go in summer I am now not sure if I will return to ordering a macchiato or cappuccino at least until the weather gets cold.

5. Get out of Athens in August

Athens  literally dies in August which can be great for a newcomer getting around what is normally a busy city.

Problem is everything closes down. Shopkeepers, service providers and anyone else that you can think of all head to the islands to escape the heat and questions about ” why you are still in Athens.”

Next August even if I don’t get to an island  I will make sure I am cooling off in water somewhere outside of this city.

Cheers and Giassas

Stu